Day 13: Penultimatum

The traveler's moment: have you ever read a travel book and wondered: can it really happen? How can she meet these amazing people?

Well the traveler's moment just happened to me today. While wandering aimlessly in a small museum in a hidden corner of downtown, I met one of the world's most passionate docents. My face must have screamed I don't know anything and why I'm here - which was true: my fabulous plan to get up at 8am fell spectacularly and I instead played it by ears. Then I was going to the Chipulpetec park but stopped at the Almeda first because it was so nice and bright. I'm telling you, Mexico City has everything, if you want European building you have European building. If you want French park, you have French part. History? Check. Dance? Yep. Street food? Mystery? Aha. It literally has everything, a world within a world. This square in particular is clean, big, and full of shades. It also has wifi. And I enjoyed it too much that my plan to go to the park didn't work anymore because of timing and distance. Instead I went to the little known Diego Rivera mural museum because it was the first "nearby attraction" that showed up on my phone. Admission was only 19 pesos and since I lost wifi after that, I actually didn't know what I was going to look at.

A big mural, it turned out, with hundreds of characters and allegories in them. The museum helpfully had some directions in Spanish. While I tentatively studied it, this elderly gentleman stepped in and asked if I understand everything. Then he pointed me to the next big board and said that's in English. Although it wasn't true, I told him I speak Spanish and can understand everything. A delightful smile he gave me - he went on to explain every important character on the mural - why they were there and what they presented. He also explained that there are five Important Diego Rivera murals, one in San Fran actually! Another one is close by not in this museum but of walking distance. He asked if I wanted to see it and I said yes!

Ar first, I was very anxious I was worried that he was trying to sell something to me or maybe this is a scam of some sort. But he is some kind of museum connoisseur: he walks in and out free. He walked me to the Palacios de Bella artes, and the next twenty minutes or so was devoted to Diego Rivera's political mural. It was originally commissioned by Rockefeller but erased because Lenin was featured prominently. The Mexican government adopted instead. My docent explained to me everything from the timing, context, to characters and hidden meanings. Then, just as I was so excited about this new knowledge, he decided to go. I was going to invite him for a coffee or somethinmig but he said good bye as fast as he showed up in the first place. I even forgot to ask for his name! I only remembered he wore a green vest, used to work for the finance department, is retired and loves arts. I'm so deeply grateful for his spontaneous generosity to a stranger!

Lina had a traveler's moment today too. Guess who was in the same elevator as her? Limp Bitzkit and Korn! What did I say? Anything can happen in Mexico City!

As for the park, it wasn't totally lost. I biked there instead using one of Mexico progressive bike shares. Great bike lane and bike traffic lights! I had a blast! Afterwards I went to a mariachi restaurant, but that's the story for anther day. I need to take a nap before my super early flight tomorrow. Adios!

PS: Taxi here is so expensive, it costs as much as a bus trip from Cuernavaca to the city. Lesson learned: public transportation!